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A murmur of discontent filled the room. At the film’s dénouement, a group of models, passing around a joint as the sun set over Oakwood Beach, discussed the Internet memes of last summer. “I love the radio,” Clemens said, scrolling on his phone. Another half dozen relatives soon joined the family in LeFrak. He groaned. The rest of the audience seemed unsure how to respond. It’s a wrap, it’s a wrap, it’s a wrap! “It was that ‘off’ thing you did during New York Fashion Week,” Clemens told me. He made a single T-shirt out of three T-shirts and another out of a combination of T-shirts and tank tops. His family spent his first year in New York, where his father, Major, got a master’s degree at Pace. “Telfar got thrown down the stairs of his own party, so we are all going to leave this place. Clemens was born in Queens, to Liberian parents. Gallagher said, “We’re making clothes, but I think we’re aware that we’re trying to represent our people and our friends.”. In 2003, the day after he graduated, he left for New York, and that fall he began classes at Pace, where he studied accounting. But last night, Telfar Clemens, who took home that same prize in 2017, proved that he is more than capable of filling the void at the top of the schedule. He went back to the bathroom and opened the door. Ad Choices. Clemens, center, admires Jean Paul Gaultier and Vivienne Westwood, but he is just as influenced by Macy’s and Marshalls. He made pieces that could be turned upside down, worn one way as loose-fitting pants or flipped over as a shirt. The New Yorker may earn a portion of sales from products that are purchased through our site as part of our Affiliate Partnerships with retailers. On a laptop, Clemens and Radboy looked over the first images of a collaboration with Converse. Shawn Mendes and Camila Cabello’s “Señorita” played on the van’s radio. “I like that black sailboat,” Gallagher said, looking out at the water, as Radboy rearranged pieces of driftwood. “What’s the next bag?” he said. “They all said, ‘Thanks for coming to Paris.’ That’s all they’ve said. Gallagher, who is small and straight-backed, with long dark hair, wore a long denim skirt, a life jacket, and clogs. . To revisit this article, visit My Profile, then View saved stories. Clemens describes himself as a “really outgoing loner,” and his friends respect the odd hours he likes to keep. The ruched costumes in Italian Renaissance paintings reminded him of the braided T-shirts sold in beach towns. His lack of French was a source of suffering. “Every vibe’s my vibe,” he said. A New York designer goes to Paris and beyond. “The label is like the fashion equivalent of a 1970s black punk rock band from Britain,” Jah X, a New York-based SoundCloud rapper, who recently released a track called “Telfar Bag,” told the magazine Dazed. Clemens often dresses friends for performances, and friends often work in exchange for clothes. He, Gallagher, and Clemens set about trying to make Telfar commercially viable. Clemens began to buy five-packs of white Hanes T-shirts and deconstruct them. I get the idea of being pregnant with yourself.”, “You’re like a newspaper,” Radboy explained. Those well-versed in the Telfar vernacular will surely be spending the next several months wondering how the designer might upgrade the omnipresent boot’s silhouette. “Their takes on whatever we want to do will be what we want. But, at the end of December, a burglar backed a truck into the yard with the shipping containers, broke into one of them, and stole five crates of clothes from the label’s archives. Clemens has noticed that press about Telfar often uses words like “diversity,” “community,” and “inclusive.” “I’m, like, always being included,” Clemens said, dryly. “You know it’s me. One woman had dyed a black Telfar logo into her pink hair. “Oh, my God, why are y’all letting him play?” Galaxy said. He was not motivated to make the kind of fashion that served a small class of out-of-towners, and he contemplated how he might sell his clothes in a different way when he was in New York. “Pretty much everyone is sort of dressing themselves,” he said, pulling out a leather jacket and a pair of jeans with flares made out of gray T-shirt knit. Clemens wanted to make ambitious designs for his friends, and also to have his name on the side of a bus. “I’m not pressed,” Clemens said. “I think we are really trying to get into the Ugg DNA—all the reasons why people want them and how they make people feel and just go there as us, seeing how that crosses with Telfar.”. “Telfar Home,” he joked. Clemens slept beside his cousins on blankets on the floor of a bedroom. They go and eat dinner, and they go to sleep.”. Is that how he recommends styling his future collab? For Collections, Stockists, Videos and more information. “Ian is very ‘Share My World’ right now,” Clemens said, finding the perfect visual reference in the 1997 Mary J. Blige album. “It was a super-energizing start to the week.”. True fans will remember that he’s riffed on Uggs in his own collections before, with the idea percolating as early as 2010 and appearing on a 2014 runway. To revisit this article, select My⁠ ⁠Account, then View saved stories. A Jamaican-American model named Johan Galaxy, dressed in a gray Telfar cargo vest and a blond wig, emerged from a changing area. Sometimes the tees were muumuu-size, reaching the kids’ knees. Financing the work demanded ingenuity. He would be able to make clothes that ranged in size from extra-extra-small to extra-extra-large, that people in the Midwest would be able to buy. In addition to working for Telfar, Radboy, the son of Iranian immigrants, is the art director for Bidoun, an arts magazine about the Middle East and its diasporas. In the older ads, a group of mostly white banker types sat around discussing golf. Gallagher noted that Clemens often refers to his aunt’s Talbots catalogues: “He has always been super interested in what everybody wears rather than what the rare person wears.”, In 2017, Clemens was the recipient of the C.F.D.A./Vogue Fashion Fund award. “Staten Island is cute,” Clemens happily observed. From the looks of the table—which was left untidied to … For a time, Clemens was represented by the Paris-based New Galerie, and he attempted to sell the videos he produced for his collections, along with the entire lines, as a single art work. They pulled up to a marina full of tugboats called Miller’s Launch, and everyone erupted in excitement. He moved into a dorm in the financial district, down the street from Century 21, the department store that sells discounted designer clothing. He was wearing a taupe zip-up hoodie and a pair of Telfar sweatpants made of thermal waffle weave. Some were in the conventional places, on pants and vests; others were affixed to the sleeves of T-shirts or along waistbands. Globalization has produced a lingua franca of T-shirts and jeans, sweats and tracksuits, polo shirts and basketball shorts. I listen to Z100 early in the morning,” he said. And then, like, a month later, on Instagram, that person exists.”. (Radboy and Gallagher are a couple and have a five-year-old son.) All rights reserved. The collaboration with the Gap had been officially announced in January. They’re sold under the slogan “Not for You, for Everyone.”. “I think the whole point is that it’s effortless,” he offers. A Life profile of a U.N. diplomat? The models skipped rocks as they waited to be ferried out to a barge, while Clemens and his crew worked from another boat that had been set up as a staging area. Clemens and Radboy designed merchandise, including Telfar-branded T-shirts that said “Customer,” and printed fake gift cards. Strangelove.’ ” At its center, there would be a conversation pit that doubled as a rehearsal space. Despite the tumult, he seemed serene. Clemens remembers hearing Technotronic and Whitney Houston on the radio, eating his first Butterfinger and his first slice of pizza, and mistaking the abandoned site of the World’s Fair in Flushing Meadows Corona Park for Disney World. Sometimes he’d buy something to wear from Century 21 and return it the next day. “And, also, you will be satisfying the need for public art.”. On Monday, November 30, at 9am EST, interested shoppers can log onto to pre-order their UGG x Telfar shopping bag. But he is just as influenced by Macy’s and Marshalls. He stayed up late that night. Attending Paris Fashion Week was a step toward getting the attention of European critics. “You can never get Telfar to go to dinner, because he’s asleep between 5 P.M. and 8 P.M.,” the artist Khalid al Gharaballi, Clemens’s friend and former roommate, told me.

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