The appearance is only slightly different – but different nevertheless. Why Walnut? Watch any instructional videos you might be able to find, and remember that you may need to repeat the same process several times to get the smooth, rich and lustrous finish you are after. Major Sir Gerald Burrard wrote in his book, 'The Modern Shotgun', - "We have in Walnut an ideal wood which is not only tough, hard and not given to splitting, but is also frequently figured in a beautiful manner which is a joy to the eye." Lacquers or varnishes are much more hard wearing and although are harder to repair if damaged will generally keep your gun looking much better for far longer. While many of you reading this probably own an “evil black rifle” or three, there is a good chance you’ve got one or more guns with nice wooden stocks. Work a section at a time. Because it’s the name is refinishing rifle stocks. All the finish is IN the wood, not ON it so it looks like an original. This should be on anyone’s list of the best gun stock finish. Nothing destroys a vintage … Tim Greenwood always gives good solid sound advice, knows what he’s talking about…..I’m bias as he’s my gunsmith…..and a darn good one at that. Take a look at your gun. Black Walnut makes for fine stocks, but if we return to the work of James Howe, we get to learn its place in the World. It’s a very affordable product and one of the best gun stock finishing kits in my book. oil with a hardener or French polish. This finish gives walnut a dark yet warm color, and if you choose to apply it by wet-sanding, this too can fill the grain as above. The heat gun also provides a solution for urethane-finished stocks that are resistant to the scraper treatment. If you just need to do a touch up of two, consider the walnut stain pen to make a few simple fixes. “With the one exception of Juglans Regia, it is the best stock wood extant.” Duane agrees: “For some firearms, a traditional choice would be Black Walnut...pretty good, but not usually in the class of Juglans [Regia].” It’s simple to apply, and you should do it in a well ventilated area. This is the first of three articles looking at Walnut stock blanks, part two and three look at stocking, gun stock shapes and finishing. First things first: STOP. I like this kit because it does include the metal refinishing chemicals, and provides enough stain and bluing to do several guns. Once the finish is removed, I use fine steel wool to work the stock to a smooth finish. My initial concern was it causing the finish to be cloudy but it definitely doesn’t as long as you wait 3-4 hours between applications and thoroughly rub the True-Oil until there is none left on your gloves. Some are best for maintaining an existing stock, while others are must haves for in depth finishing or refinishing. This looks good for a time, but as you have found, soon wears off. Required fields are marked *. Often all you really need to do is clean and reoil or wax the stock to get that brilliant like new look, or you may have a brand new stock that needs the complete treatment from sanding to staining, to waxing, or oiling. Without giving away too many trade secrets away, let me start with saying that the reason your stock has gone dull after being shiny is almost certainly because the last couple of coats applied to it were either an oil with a hardener, such as Tru-Oil, or it has been French Polished. I have a new AA Pro-Sport walut stock that has some beautiful grain and was wondering what is the best way to treat it. Now, having said that, there are umpteen zillions of guns that benefit from a refinishing. I live in a warm climate so my wait time is short. Use a tooth pick to push your new wood muck into the crack completely, then use a clamp of some sort to push the wood together and hold it there. The gun has no flat surfaces so I only used steel wool to remove the finish. Save my name, email, and website in this browser for the next time I comment. Perhaps the gold standard of gunstock finishes, Tru-Oil is a longtime old reliable favorite. Good luck! This is called ‘raising t. he grain’. Wait a minute or so and test the area. But I have managed to make an old highly figured black walnut 870 trap stock look pretty nice with nothing but linseed oil,,,,yet it's taken over a year. Here's a 1950 Marlin 39-A I'm in the process of restoring. They’ve produced a product that works so well, for such a great price it’s almost impossible to beat. Disclaimer: If the gun you’re considering for refinishing is a collectible, please be advised that any alteration to the originality of the firearm, including refinishing the stock, may decrease the street value of its potential “collectible” status. First things first: STOP.
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